The suit as we know it today dates back to its creator, Beau Brummel, who became the arbiter of fashion more than 150 years ago. The playboy style of the time was later represented by artists such as David Bowie, Mark Bolan and Roxy Music's Bryan Ferry, and became known as the glam rock style. Many styles have evolved over the years, such as double-breasted, three-button, wide, and narrow lapels. However, the basic structure and shape of the modern suit have changed little in the last hundred years. For decades, we've been locked in repetitive style loops from original concepts. A more tailored two-button single-breasted style is now the standard, with the younger generation preferring the so-called butt-freezer. In this case, the jacket was short at the lower torso and the pants were low-rise, reminiscent of old-fashioned hipsters, with stovepipe legs to complete the look.
The suit was first marketed in Savile Row, the oldest and most famous of all the tailoring districts in the world. Around 1803, tailors began doing business there. Henry Poole is credited with creating the first evening gown. It came to be known as Tuxedo, after Tuxedo Park in upstate New York, which is a Native American word meaning flowing water. Kings, princes, wealthy industrialists, Hollywood movie stars and rock music stars led the way to Savile Row, spending millions on luxurious suits made from the finest Australian marine wool. Early 1960's Tommy Nutter opened in the early 1960's with the financial backing of Cilla Black. He is known for reinventing Savile Row. The first showcase caused some controversy, a practice considered unwise by old-school wardrobe traditionalists, usually behind closed doors. Nutter dressed the Beatles for the famous Abbey Road album cover. Other clients include Mick Jagger, Bianca Jagger and Elton John.
Shortly after Spencer Tracey's death, her longtime partner and confidante, Catherine Hepburn, visited Savile Row to make suits for Tracey's tailor. He had a pair of jeans tailored and inadvertently gave birth to the 1970s jean craze. Building on this innovation, Richard James launched another Savile Row tailored suit in Japanese selvedge denim.
Famous Italian woolen mill and suit manufacturer Zegna has been buying Australia's finest micromarino wool since 1910. In addition to ready-to-wear, they receive between 60 and 80 special orders for suits each year, for a value of $34,000. Zegna continues the Savile Row tradition of using the highest quality fabrics.
Demand for tailored suits has declined dramatically over the past three decades. Sale ranges and price points in department stores were the main reason for declining sales on Savile Row, and many tailors had to downsize and enter the ready-to-wear mainstream. Now, one can buy a suit made in Italy in micromarino wool for less than $2,000.
The modern suit survived, but fewer men tended to wear them, opting for a more casual style. Large accounting firms and law firms have moved away from tradition, and for many, the suit and tie is no longer the standard dress code for the office. Is this a good thing? I think not, it shows a lack of self-discipline and self-esteem. Men are easily swayed by peer group pressure at the office and generally go with the flow. Those who choose to go out and dress up are winners in the long run, so dress up and get positive reviews.
